Race Trailer Spec Sheet: What to Order and What to Skip

Between the dirt tracks, drag strips and road courses across Georgia and North Florida, we build a lot of race trailers. The ones that work well share a spec that has been refined over years of race weekends. This is that spec, in the order the options sheet asks for it, with notes on what to skip if the budget is tight.

Width and length

Race trailers are 8.5-wide, full stop. The car needs door clearance and the floor needs to be flat. Length starts at the car plus a walk-around, then adds the shop and storage. A 20-footer carries a car and a small tool setup. A 24-footer adds a proper workbench and cabinets. A 28-footer or longer adds a lounge or a second vehicle, and at that point a gooseneck is worth considering for stability. Our gooseneck vs bumper pull post covers that decision.

Axles and frame

• Tandem 5,200 lb axles minimum; 7,000 lb on anything 24 feet and up or carrying a heavy car plus equipment.
• Torsion axles for ride quality; the car and the tools ride better on them.
• Electric brakes on every axle.
• Spread axles on 24 feet and longer for highway stability.
• 6-inch main frame on anything over 20 feet, 12-inch on-center floor crossmembers, and tube crossmembers under the car.

Doors

A heavy-duty ramp door, upgraded to the 7,000 lb super-duty ramp with double spring assist if the car is heavy or the trailer is tall. Ramp extensions or a beavertail to flatten the loading angle for a low car. A 54x48 escape door placed for the driver's door of the car, which our escape door post explains how to position. A 36-inch side door up front for getting in without dropping the ramp.

Height

Standard height works for most cars. Add 6 or 12 inches of extra height if you are hauling a truck, a car on a lift, or if the trailer has overhead cabinets you will be standing under. Remember that extra height 18 inches and up requires double spring assist on the ramp, and that a taller trailer catches more wind.

Power

A 110V electrical package with a panel box, a 50-amp motor base plug and a lifeline cord for shore power at the track. Interior receptacles along the workbench wall, and GFI receptacles inside and out. 12V LED dome lights on a battery for when shore power is not available. Exterior recessed flood lights on the rear and on the door side for working under lights. If a generator is going on the tongue or in a compartment, our generator mounting post covers the sizing.

Interior

Aluminum or coated floor in the car bay, wall liner on all walls, and base and overhead cabinets along the front and one side. A workbench with a vise. E-track or recessed D-rings on the floor laid out for your car's tie-down points; get the layout before the floor goes in. A winch plate at the front. A tire rack and a fuel jug rack on the wall keep the floor clear. A partition with a door if you want a lounge up front.

Exterior

Screwless skin for the wrap, blackout trim if you want the look, ATP stoneguard regardless, and a spare tire on a mount. Roof vents, and a rooftop A/C with 12-inch roof bows if you will be living in the front section.

What to skip if the budget is tight

• The stereo package. It is nice; it is not what makes the weekend work.
• Overhead cabinets on the second wall. One wall of cabinets and a bench is plenty for most programs.
• Windows in the car bay. Light comes in when the ramp is down.
• Triple axles on anything under 28 feet.

Bring the car's weight, length and tie-down points to the custom build conversation and we will turn this list into an order.